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Answers
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- 24/22, 10/5 – 6 points. Make a bold move to establish yourself on both sides of the board before White has a chance to develop.
- 13/8, 11/10 – 7 points. White has a one-point board (compared with your own three-point board), and two inner board blots.
- 6/1*, 6/4* – 6 points. More dynamic than the alternatives.
- 16/10, 6/5 – 7 points. The alternatives are cramped and feeble. White’s 3’s are duplicated with this play, and his large numbers play poorly.
- 13/8, 7/6 – 7 points. Better containment if the blot on the roof comes in, and better coverage of the outer boards.
- Bar/20, 19/13 – 6 points. Entering on the 20-point is obvious. What might be less obvious is the need to keep an eye on White’s rear checker by coming out to the midpoint.
- 24/13 – 6 points. Don’t be lured off the anchor.
- 24/16 – 7 points. No need to panic. You have an advanced anchor, and better structure on your side of the board. Hitting only makes a mess.
- Bar/23, 6/3* – 7 points. It is tempting to enter on the 22-point, and play quietly down to the 11, but anchoring and hitting is safer.
- 8/6, 5/4 – 6 points. Clearing the 8-point completely or trying to crack White by keeping the prime with 6/4, 6/5 are both strong plays, but the combination of good bearin distribution, and the possibility of going back for more checkers makes it correct to leave the blot.
- 10/3 – 7 points. It is tempting to hit a second blot, but if White rolls a 3 you may be in big trouble.
- 17/1 – 7 points. Greed is a terrible thing to waste!
- 11/10, 8/4* -- 7 points. Don’t let White escape.
- 7/3(2)*, 6/2(2)* – 7 points. Swinging from the hips! If you are White, I’ll bet you wish you had played problem #9 correctly.
- 15/13, 2/1* – 7 points. Don’t let White have the acepoint anchor.
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